Appaquag, from the Nipmuck “swampy area”, also known as Cady Hill and Grow Hill, for the families who farmed there, is one of the oldest sections of town. Though Appaquag had its own one room school house, from 1774 to the early 1900’s when the seven schools consolidated into three, it was without some of the amenities common to the other sections, such as stores, mills, depots, and post offices. Situated in the northeastern corner of the town, Appaquag was the smallest of the seven districts, and according to the 1869 map of the town, the most sparsely populated, due in large part to its industry: farming.
Appaquag’s “Grow Farm” is one of the oldest in town, the home built between 1730 and 1748. Like several of our earliest settlers, Thomas Grow was from Andover Massachusetts, arriving in Hampton in 1730 and purchasing 100 acres in the portion of town that was originally part of Pomfret, later incorporated into Hampton and designated as the school district called Appaquag.
Upon his death in 1755, Grow deeded half of the land to his son, Joseph, and the other half to his son Thomas, Jr. who would become known as Deacon Thomas Grow. Though the Grow Farm is described as “prosperous”, much more is written on the Baptist Church that was established there. Born in 1743, Deacon Thomas Grow, according to Susan Jewett Griggs’ Folklore and Firesides, welcomed parishioners to his home for services prior to constructing the Grow Meetinghouse on the property, a wall of which, reportedly, is still visible. His son, William, would continue as the first ordained pastor, from 1776 to 1783, and a Grow cousin, James, a farmer and a schoolmaster, continued as pastor from 1788 to 1805.
Along with a church, the farm also had its own cemetery, the Grow Burying Grounds, circa 1740. Here, on a small hill along Carter Road, members of the Grow family rest in peace, flags marking the graves of Revolutionary War soldiers Deacon Thomas and Ebenezer, who served under General Israel Putnam. A few of the gravestones are still legible, and Deacon Thomas, identified as “a prosperous farmer and leader of the Grow Hill Baptist Church”, is inscribed thus:
Died
June 5, 1824,
Aged 81 Years
Every sea and lake and river
shall restore their dead to view
shout for gladness O believer
Christ is risen and so shall you.
The ministers and veterans of the American Revolution were not the only members of the Grow family of renown. According to Janet and Jim Robertson’s All Our Yesterdays, “In the 1860’s, the speaker of the House, a representative from Pennsylvania who sponsored the Homestead Act, was Galusha Grow – who had been born on what is now known as Grow Hill on the northern edge of Hampton, Connecticut.”
In 1876, the Stone family purchased the Grow Farm , operating it for over a hundred years. Harold Stone, a life-long resident, described growing up on the farm in several entries of Hampton Remembers, illustrating an industrious, and simple, life.
We always put up ice at home. Everybody did. Now today if people had to depend on ice you couldn’t do it – ‘cause we don’t have the season for it! Dad made an icebox for the house, lined it with zinc and filled in the space with sawdust. It was a chest type – you lifted up the top to put the ice in and your ice was on one side and your food on the other. It was out in the back room and for when it melted, it had a hole down through and pipes down underneath so the water went right down under the building…You set your milk in these tin pans about ten to twelve inches across the top, smaller across the bottom. And up home we had what you called a milk, butter, and cheese pantry known as a butt’ry…We used to pick huckleberries in the summertime and Mr. Clapp at Elliot store would give us ten cents a quart the first week, nine the next and when it got down so he was giving us three cents a quart, then we picked to preserve for our own use…We had, as a rule, somewhere around twenty cows…When I was a small boy my day started about ha’ past five or a little earlier than that because we had to have our milk cooled and down to Elliot station by seven o’clock. We had the stables to clean and the milking and we had to pitch out the silage after we got a silo and pitch down the hay, and feed ’em the grain…We had to pump the water and turn the cows out into what was the horse barn there because that’s where the pump was and one boy could pump and keep pumping, steady if two cows were drinking…In the summer, you had your haying and those days you didn’t kill weeds with pesticides. You had to work. Vacation? I don’t think they knew what the word meant…Well, say, I don’t think the children today have anywhere near the fun that they had those days. They worked hard but of course they enjoyed their time off more.
Harold’s sibling, Elmer, ran the farm until he retired in 1954, when the operation was purchased by his sons, Clarence and Walter, and became known as the “Stone Brothers.” The farm grew during their ownership to a hundred cows, some pigs, lots of chickens, and many buildings to accommodate the daily operations, two large barns, a tool and oil shed, a garage for vehicles, a pig pen, and a pole barn.
Many of the changes through those years were the result of growth and of legislation. While Elmer still milked the cows the old-fashioned way, Walt and Clarence machine-milked. Laws required the equipment that was always cleaned in the house to be washed in its own room in a larger barn. Milk sold directly to customers or brought to the train station was now sold to Cumberland Farms. Previously stored in cans placed in a large container chilled with water, milk was now poured into a bulk tank hitched to a milk truck and hauled away.
The work load didn’t change. The farmers worked from sunrise to sunset, the children milked the cows before school started, and brought the cows in after school, and their mothers cooked a breakfast every morning of “fresh juice, cereal and fruit, eggs, bacon or sausage, fried bread, pancakes, milk, coffee, and sometimes homemade donuts,” Phyllis Stone recalled.
The major changes, however, occurred during the last century when the number of dairy farms dwindled down to three in the last half, all in the Appaquag part of town, and eventually to only one.
Allan Cahill came to Hampton in 1975 at the age of 18. His widowed mother and her husband, a generational farmer, searched for farms from Georgia to New Brunswick before finally settling on what was then the Postemski farm, the northern most portion of the original Grow Farm. For the next 25 years, the Geers ran the dairy operation Raydongeo Farms named for members of the Geer family – Raymond, Donald and George.
In 1999, Al and Clark Woodmansee started the partnership known as Woodhill Farm. Al became the sole proprietor when he bought the business in 2013, and on September 29 of this year, he and partner Kevin Burnham created Grow Hill, LLC, the real estate holding company. Today the farm encompasses what was known as the Geer farm, a portion of the Albro farm on the Pomfret line, the Stone farm, much of the Polom farm, and half of the Loew farm — five farms into one.
Farming, Al says, is not just a vocation; it’s a way of life. He’s “on call” 24-7 in this capacity, and in the other role he serves, as First Selectman. Following in the footsteps of one of his predecessors, on the farm and in the town — Walt Stone — Al says he watched and listened closely to Walt and many of those he admired who preceded or worked with him, becoming the town’s Chief Official in 2011. Running unopposed this November, he will start his 14th year as First Selectman, but, out of respect, he won’t break Walt’s record of 20 years.
On average, twelve people work on the farm all year, with sub-contractors and bartering with area farms during the harvest season. The farm exports 12 to 15 tons of milk per day, sold to Guida’s Dairy. Residents might notice a tank truck drive daily through town between eight and ten every morning on its way to New Britain.
There are 800 cattle who call the farm “home”, and only two dairy barns. “We’d all rather be outside, right?” Al asks, explaining that several shelters provide protection from the weather when needed and accommodate the philosophy of “lose free choice housing”, which allows the cows to roam free.
The goal, Al says, is animal comfort. “We treat them like children, with age and size appropriate groupings, and a lot of freedom.” We’re stewards, he says, of the land, keeping it in open space and protecting it from development, and of the animals. “We take excellent care of the cows. They pay the bills.”
The cows and the farm are also celebrated with a wine called “Woodhill”, produced and bottled here in Hampton at Quiet Corner Winery. “Why a cow on a wine bottle?” the label asks. “Quiet Corner Winery is nestled in a part of Connecticut rich in farming history. We chose to feature a cow on our Sauvignon Blanc label as a tribute to the hardworking farming community, particularly honoring the dairy farms of Hampton. Our goal is to craft a wine that not only stands the test of time but also celebrates the heritage and dedication of this agricultural region.”
And so — a toast. Here’s to our town’s dairy farm, conserver of land, protector of animals, preserver of history.
Dayna McDermott